Detail from "Mission at Sunrise"

After lunch we walk the few blocks over to the plaza, dominated by the church. Here the venders have set up their stalls, selling food, drinks, various trinkets. Shop keepers around the square have their wares displayed out in front. Gambling booths seem to have found the choicest locations. A couple of local bars are already doing a brisk business. Kids have gotten hold of a bunch of firecrackers to add to the confusion.

Lots of people. Everyone dressed in his or her best! We see some we know--the American doctor who has just come to set up a small medical clinic under US-Brazilian auspices, a young soil scientist here to study food production problems, a couple of itinerant journalists. Moacir joins us, escorting Leila and her sisters. Zeca, my husband's launch mechanic, brings his shy young wife up to meet the chefe and me.

Detail from "Moon over the Mission"

By the church door a few musicians are warming up. We recognize the trumpet player--the butcher who saves us a cut of beef twice a week, by a back-door arrangement. And the drummer is our faithful water carrier. It appears that the band will lead the procession.

Church bells ring out and from the church come the priest and the acolytes. The life-sized statue of St. John is carried aloft by four husky men who in turn are followed by women in white. Townspeople, children, and a motley crew of dogs join the parade which makes its way through the streets and down to the wharf before returning to the church. São João goes back to his own small chapel for another year. Rockets go off and elaborate fireworks light up the night! We turn toward home.

the Southern Cross makes its own music the sky darkens